DIY Garden Design Installation
THE GREEN BY NATURE PROCESS OF LANDSCAPING A GARDEN WITH DIY GARDENING DESIGN TIPS:
The GREEN BY NATURE process of putting together a garden works through four stages:
Start by clearing out all unwanted plants and working on the levels of your garden, followed by Irrigation installation and Hardscaping. Finally the best part, the planting up of the garden. The following will either give you an insight into how we approach a landscape installation or alternatively it can assist you with your own project.
DIY Courses:
Green By Nature has developed DIY courses to suite the individual at home and ensure they can install their own garden designs effectively and efficiently as described under our DIY Garden Design Installation Section. Our DIY Courses are designed to bring the fun and passion into gardening. Please click here for a list of our DIY courses and dates. Should you wish to book a course please download our booking form and email it to diy@greenbynature.co.za or fax to 086 502 4076. All courses will be held at 21 Riverbend Road, Northriding, Johannesburg or at Lifestyle Nursery, Beyers Naude , Johannesburg, depending on the course and numbers of attendees. Course space is limited.
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How much to spend on a garden?
The most frequently asked question is, how much do I spend on a garden? We don’t ever set a standard with this but to spend 5% of the value of your home on a well designed and laid out garden is the least to one should consider. Generally we recommend anywhere from 7,5% to 10 % but we do have clients who spend up to 15% and more on their gardens depending on the mix of hardscapes (Water features) and paving within the garden design. Generally the water features and paving, decking options, etc can make up 75% of your budget. Before you cut these out of your design entirely, consider their impact on the value of the garden as these elements, whilst expensive; do add value immediately onto your house value.
Capital Growth and your landscape design go hand in hand. If you spend 10% on a R1, 5 million rand home – that means you have a budget of R150k. When you sell your home with say a 12% increase in house prices, then you should get a return of at least R18 000 on your garden. This is especially true when a garden has been well planned and laid out.
At Green By Nature we bring this into account in our designs, so that our clients will receive a return financially on their gardens.
A Plan is always only 80% - Your 20% perfection is usually on site.
When you plan your garden you will have an 80% idea of what is required. Usually the additional 20% is fine tuned whilst on site. Patterns on paper will look great but sometimes practicality results in some small changes being made.
STEP 1 – LEVEL PREPARATION AND SITE CLEARANCE
This stage is very important as it entails the soil and site preparation. This step is disregarded either because it is costly in terms of labour or the importance of it not ascertained buy the individual.
1.1 – Site Preparation
At this stage you will look at removing invader plants or plants you cannot transplant or use in the design. As a general rule we keep large trees or really large focal plants. Please be aware of the invader list which is easily available on the www.sali.co.za. In some cases you are legally bound to remove such plants. If you are unaware of what to remove or keep, consider using a specialist from your local nursery who will charge you by the hour. It’s also a great time to start learning about your plants.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – SITE PREPARATION
- Tie a ribbon or plastic around plants you wish to keep.
- Use agricultural lime or chalk obtainable from any hardware, to map out your design so you have an idea of where your beds and retaining walls are going to be.
- This is a great time to start identifying plants with a great plant book. Make sure its local!
1.2 Assess Levels
Assess your levels – Sloped areas are uncomfortable, and can be impractical. You cannot use these for tables and chairs. They are also difficult to play on.
You will also feel that there is less space in your garden where slopes exist, and whilst this is an illusion, because you use sloped areas less, this is in fact true. When you start playing with terraces you will see how it improves the design and also creates interest in the garden.
Another reason for levels is the improvement of drainage, especially where you have slopes heading towards your pool. It also prevents soil erosion.
The downside of correcting levels is expense. It will require retaining walls and top soil which again adds cost with labour and materials. However the expense is often worth it as it results in a much better looking garden.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – LEVELS
- Use double brick retaining walls.
- Don’t forget to water proof behind the retaining walls with plastic sheets.
- Foundations need to be at least 300mm wide and between 150mm and 300mm deep depending on your retaining wall height.
- Avoid retaining wall heights greater than 600mm as this will start to feel like it is closing you in. Split the levels in this case to two, for anything over 600mm high.
- You could clad the walls with natural stone or decking which adds a different twist to the garden and introduces new textures.
- Don’t use sleepers. These eventually rot and break down which adds to the problem later on.
- Levels are great in a contemporary design, especially when you plant into these terraces
- Levels allow you to room off your garden. You can include Jacuzzis, Pools or interesting focal planting on these different levels.
- Consider installing a putting green on one of the levels!
- You should consider starting the digging for your swimming pool in conjunction with this stage of levels as the excess soil could be used to fill. See Swimming Pools under Hardscapes.
STEP 2. IRRIGATION
Once you have built the retaining walls and your levels are correct, you should by now have laid out where your beds will be, then irrigation installation is the next step. This step can be done in conjunction with Hardscapes(Water Features, Driveways) – see below, but ensure you have 110mm piping sleeves under driveways so as to allow pipes through.
You will be required to do much digging and trenching so do not bring any new plant material onto site yet and possibly get some assistance. Irrigation pipes on the surface of the ground are not advisable. Dogs, spades any many other problems arise with irrigation pipes.
We do recommend you automate your irrigation. There are relatively inexpensive outdoor and indoor controllers which allow you to set times for your irrigation. The controller is attached to solenoids nearby in the garden which will switch on and off from your controller. So make sure you have electric cable with different colours representing the different solenoids which themselves will represent the different garden zones.
When irrigating your garden you will need to consider things such as water pressure and amount sprays that you will then be able to work of one station. If you are doing this yourself I would suggest you discuss this with your supplier who may even come out and advise you.
When Green By Nature installs the irrigation we use a model specifically developed for us which indicates how many sprays etc we can use based on the water dispersement of each spray. So it is very scientific.
Irrigation piping should be 25mm in diameter and SABS approved. This will allow water pressure to be adequate. You may wish to look at connecting directly off the mains within your garden premises as this improves pressure. Just ensure you don’t have too much pressure as this will cause your pipes to burst over time. Anything over 4 bar static would require a pressure reducing valve.
Pipes should be laid at least 400mm deep. Anything less is not in accordance with LIA standards and a spade ill easily go through the pipe.
There are a few products in the market. Green By Nature uses Hunter, Rainbird or Weathermatic.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – IRRIGATION
- Zone the irrigation system according to plant types and their water
requirements. When you plan which plants will go where, keep “heavy
drinkers” together in one zone, and plants with light water requirements
in another. - Split the irrigation into “rooms” or sections, so there’s enough pressure
for each zone. - The pipes should go 400mm underground to prevent damage from
spades and garden forks when you’re doing garden maintenance. If,
you have puppies or dogs that dig, you can go as deep as 450mm. And
use metal “risers” (the bits that pop up and spray the water) rather than
the more common plastic ones. - Use 25mm SABS approved irrigation piping.
- Set your irrigation to water between 5.30am and 7am in summer, so
that the water has a chance to settle in, but won’t remain too damp around
the roots. - If you water late at night in summer, there’s a risk of fungal
disease and mildew. - In winter, set it to come on after 8.30am, so that it
doesn’t make frost and burn the plants. Don’t water on windy and cold
days, for the same reason. - Rain sensors are available in the market to ensure you don’t water on rainy days.
- Allow sleeves – 110 mm piping under driveways or paved areas so you can get your irrigation pipes from one side to the other.
- Assess if you need these sleeves anywhere else so as to get irrigation to the difficult parts of your garden such as Atriums.
STEP 3. HARDSCAPES
Hardscapes is a term relating to Water Features, Paving, Cladding, Decking, Crush or pebbles, Edging stone and anything that is not green in your garden.
Water features are ideal as focal points in the garden, leading your eye across the garden to create that feeling of space. A garden in my own opinion is not complete without some form of water, be it small or large. Please look at our galleries for some ideas.
However please be aware that water features are maintenance whichever way you look at it. You will be required to clean out pumps, and keep the water as clean as possible in autumn when leaves are falling, although try and keep water features away from trees and definitely do not look at installing them under trees as this will increase your maintenance. The use of energy is another consideration however some of the more expensive pumps save on energy and pay themselves off over time. You can also set the water feature to work at certain times reducing electric bills.
Lighting in conjunction with water features is a perfect mood setter and should be considered. Lighting does add to the cost but again it enhances the garden design. We generally include submersible lights in all our custom water features and external lights on our pot water features.
Water features also create a calming effect with the sound of soft running water which can be used as a mood setter or it can drown out background noises, for example traffic.
We have galleries of custom and pot water features. Custom water features such as water walls, letter box troughs, stainless steel water walls as well as glass water walls, are a real wow effect in the garden but these can be very expensive and will definitely add to the budget. Generally you would require a specialist to install these for you, and Green By Nature specializes in this specific area of landscaping, setting it apart from other landscape installation companies since we do this all in house.
Pot water feature are a cheaper option, easier for the DIY designer and can be more effective if used in three’s or so to add impact.
The most important consideration in regards to water features is child safety. We generally recommend using a pool net cover or we can custom make grills that add to the design so that no child will fall in.
Pot water features can be purchased in a pebble pond kit, where the water is under the pot buried and pebbles cover the surface of the sump so that no child can get to the water. It is also a great design effect with water falling over the side of the pot and disappearing into the ground only to be recycled again.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – WATER FEATURES
- Don’t put water features too close to entertainment areas – it can sound
like a running tap! In closed areas, the sound of water is too loud, which is
distracting rather than claming. - Avoid putting water features under trees as the leaves will block your pumps.
- Combine water features with natural stone, slate or quartz – the textures
and colours look great with water. - Water features must be child-proofed. Pebble Ponds are the best kind of water
feature if you have kids. - Note that scale and size are important with water features. Try and avoid really large water features in small spaces as well as very small water features in large spaces.
- Water walls are ideal for narrow pathways and can be used as a focal feature to look onto from inside the house, especially dining rooms and entertainment areas.
- Consider adding a float valve to your sump which is then connected to your irrigation. It will then fill up automatically when the irrigation goes on reducing your maintenance.
- The height of the water falling and the size of the sump are directly proportional. i.e. the higher your water nozzle, the larger your sump to prevent water wastage.
- The size of pumps are also directly proportional to the height of the water feature. The larger the water feature and the higher it is, the larger the pump. Have an idea of the size of the water feature in order to get the right specs for the pump.
- When working with water walls or water features requiring a sump, the minimum size of the sumps width should be 700mm.
- Pumps in water features should be checked that their cables are not damages as this will lead to electrocution or tripping from earth leakage. Ensure pumps are purchased from a reputable dealer.
- Cables that come with pumps should be checked for length. Usually they are anywhere up to 10 meters. Should you need to splice these purchase a mending kit from any hardware. This allows for proper sealing of the joints.
3.2 Paving, Natural Stone and Crush
Paving is an excellent idea in the landscape design. It provides areas for entertainment
and does not necessarily always have to be near the house. You could have a paved tea area for example in your garden, providing a place to go and enjoy in the garden.
Paving is generally cheaper than decking but your selection of pavers determines the cost. There are cheaper products but ensure that their durability is assured. Types of paving include Smartstone products, Colonial Stone Products, Wonder rock products to but mention a few we use and recommend.
Pavers can be laid in fixed formation with the use of a scree or placed in loose formation with soft planting in between. Sometimes a combination works very well, reducing the hardness of a paved area. In addition one can use a variety of sizes to create interest in pattern.
For pavers in driveways we do look at the option of cobbles (generally 100 x 100mm or 150 x 150mm) s these are stronger for the weight of the vehicles. Be aware the lighter paving on the driveway does result in tyre marks from
Vehicles but a sealant will assist in cleaning these more easily.
Decking is a popular alternative to paving. You may wish to look at our dedicated page to decking in order to get an idea of this and its applicability in the landscape.
Crush is a cheaper alternative to paving but I suggest it should not be used in high active areas as it will be thinned out very quickly. Use Crush for those
areas that will be used infrequently. Crush is ideal for oriental gardens and you can get many varieties. Some of the cheaper crushes include a sandstone crush or a silica crush. Some crushes are more expensive as a result of their colour. Crush is also quite frustrating with children who will find every opportunity to throw it into a pool or distribute it into the garden.
When applying crush look at using a membrane underneath that allows water to go through and prevent weeds from growing up. You can get these membranes at any nursery. Plantex and frost cover are two options.
It may be an idea to design planters into pavers to add interest to an area or let ground covers grow through the crush. This softens the hardscapes.
Cladding and natural stone are very popular in South African gardens since we have so much of it. Use cladding –
a layer of natural stone over brick walls, to add interest to your retaining walls, water features or planters. Natural stone is generally quite expensive which you purchase by the square meter. It does however create a wonderful texture to your garden. Green By Nature supplies labour for this as the labour to clad is quite specialized, especially with the riven and slate which need to be laid in straight lines.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – PAVING, NATURAL STONE AND CRUSH
Select your natural stone at www.veebush.co.za
- Choose paving so that it matches or ties in with the colours in your house.
- Use ONE type of paving bed. If you use variations for interest, it must all
be of the same colour or it will clash. - Spend money on paving: you pay for what you get.
- Cladding looks like natural rock, and is excellent for water features and
retaining walls. - Don’t use too much variety of natural stone and paving. It will get complicated. Keep the selection simple. Generally only one type of cladding should be used.
- Wooden Decks soften the design, and make it possible to add interest by using
different levels. Decks are great for seating and entertainment areas and
around pools. - Use crush or pebbles as a substitute for lawn in small, low activity areas.
- Don’t put it in high activity areas or in areas you have to drag the lawn
mower across – the wheels will plough it all up. - Use BIDDUM underneath crush and pebbles to prevent weeds from
growing through. It allows water to drain away. Put a layer of crush 5cm
thick. - Use 100x100mm cobblestones for edging to add structure and prevent
beds from immigrating into the lawn area.
3.3 Swimming Pools
Swimming pool are integral to any design and the garden is always worked into the swimming pool area. Green By Nature builds its own swimming pools as these are very exciting if well designed.
The swimming pool should be dug or built up at the start of the Project – When Levels are being addressed. Swimming pools should have some form of space around them to move, rest as the space may require. Sometimes pools have been built with no proper support or retaining walls to ensure their levels are maintained. In addition where Swimming pools are built in new levels, the ground needs to be compacted with a compactor, otherwise the ground will settle and result in cracks on your pool wall.
Swimming should always be installed by experts. However please note that in all planning, space needs to be made for the external pool pump of 1,5m x 1,5m. Also we find that any pools smaller than 3m x 3m are too small and you should then opt for a Jacuzzi or simple water feature.
Pumps should never be too close to any entertainment area as they do make a humming sound. In addition one will want to screen the pool pump for aesthetic purposes although there are more softer pool pump covers instead of the standard green cover. Pool pumps should not be lower than the pool unless a non return valve is installed. Otherwise water will run out the leaf trap in the pump.
Whether you wish to have a salt chlorinator or solar heating is up to you. However please talk to the solar panel specialist regarding the maintenance thereof as well as longevity of the pipes – leaking can occur after three years just as their guarantee is expired.
Salt chlorinators also have their own system of maintenance when it comes to cleaning the electrodes in the Salt Chlorinator although there are more expensive options with Self cleaning.
We do recommend simpler options, such as the standard chlorine pump. Heaters can be electrical but add a significant cost to your pool as well as electric bill.
The use of Marbelite or Fiberglass is a choice up to the user. We find both effective although we Marbelite all our pools as Fiber glassing is more expensive. The choice of colour is up to the client, however please be aware that darker marbelite does leach and result in some ugly stains at the bottom of the pool that can only be cleaned by emptying the pool and acid washing. Please note that marbeliting and fiberglassing is the last process to apply in the Swimming Pool after Lawn has been laid as this prevents any dust or dirt being blown into the pool and staining the Marbelite.
Marbelite is a fast drying product which should take a day to dry. Thereafter you need to ensure the pool is filled up as soon as possible. If this does not happen, the Marbelite will crack.
When adding water features onto pool we do prefer keeping the water feature separate from the pool. This simplifies the process and allows you to turn off the water feature separate from the pool.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – SWIMMING POOLS
- Start Digging the Pool when levels are being prepared.
- Marbelite the pool lastly
- Pool pumps should not be further than 15 meters from the pool and ideally on the same level as the pool.
- Use non return valves for pumps lower than the pool.
- Have at least a 600mm paver around the pool in addition to the coping tile.
- Try and Link the pool to the garden design or house with pavers or edging of your bed. This will prevent the pool from floating in the garden.
- Decking is a wonderful option as edging around the pool. Decking should not however be in contact with the pool water.
- Try and keep smaller pools al one depth of around 1,2m deep. This makes up for the smaller surface space.
- Backwash your pool at least once a week.
- Check the PH balance weekly as this is the best way to ensure that your pool will not go green.
- Backwash your pool weekly. If there is severe dust in the air this frequency may increase.
- Pools require a general sweep once a week, otherwise their walls become rough.
- If your water goes green you can get it tested at your local pool shop who will advise on how to rectify this.
- Pools go green after thunderstorms as a result of the lighting. This will always require a test and fix with Chlorine and acid.
- Play with pool shapes. Circles are great fun, but kidney shaped pools are 70’s and out.
- For small gardens there are companies that specialize in “instant” fiberglass pools. These are quick and relatively inexpensive. They don not allow for custom shapes but come in standard kit form.
- Allow pool lights to be turned on or off from inside the house.
3.4 Lighting
Lighting is a very important part of gardening. These are ideal as up lights on focal trees or plants. Alternatively you can play with down lights or wall lights. There are also garden path lights and water feature lights. There are also solar powered lights that require no cables.
The added cost of lighting is well worth the consideration. Lighting also has many spiritual connotations for most religions at one time of the year or another so it would be relay great to bring this into your design.
We find that up lights generally provide a great ambience on trees and water features. Spotlights do not in my opinion create much ambience but they will increase security. Well placed up lights will do both.
The biggest challenge with garden lights is to ensure that they do not let water into their fittings and joins hence why most electricians will silicone the cheaper light fittings.
Sealed lights which hold the entire globe and protect it from water are useful although more expensive than the cheaper options. However when it comes to electrical fittings, you do pay for what you get and I would suggest you should invest in the light fittings. What can happen with external globes, is that the sealing rubber disintegrates over time and water gets in causing a short circuit. You would need to replace the entire fixture.
Try and have your garden lighting circuit separate from the rest of the house so if you do have problems with the garden lights, then you can isolate this. All outside lights should be on low voltage for safety purposes.
When trenching for lights ensure that the minimum depth of 500mm is dug for the armor shield cables. If you do not use armor cabling then you will need to protect your electric cables with a conduit. Since you will require an electrical certificate for garden lighting I would suggest you use an electrician.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – LIGHTING
- Ensure the lighting equipment is purchased form a reputable supplier.
- Low voltage lighting improves safety and reduces risk of electrocution.
- All plug boxes outside the house should be water proofed.
- Use Green Lighting as a difference.
- Fairy lights on trees have become such a craze and really add impact in the garden.
- Use timers with lighting to allow for automatic switching on and off. You can use a day night switch which turns the lights on as soon as the sun sets or you can use a timer on the circuit breaker.
- Ensure all cables are dug 500mm below the ground.
- Put your lighting plan on your garden design to assist the electrician.
- Try and Trench for lights at the same time you are trenching for irrigation. It reduces labour.
STEP 4. PLANTING UP YOUR GARDEN
The design and style of your gardens should reflect your architecture and vice versa.
When it comes to design, work off the architecture of the house, and don’t fight it. If you have a formal, symmetrical style of house, go with a formal garden but break the design with circles or shapes that can add interest to the garden.. If you have country or more relaxed architectural style, an asymmetrical or informal
garden would be appropriate. Plants should complement each other in terms
of colour, texture and size.
4.1 Pattern and design
Spend your money on the plants that will be your focal points – for example, buy the larger tree for impact.
Plants come in different sized bags – focal plants or “specials” provide interest and impact, so get them bigger (20 litre bag). Get four litre bags for common groundcover – they will fill in fast.
The largest challenge with plants relate to their likes and dislikes. You will need to understand what plants like sun and what likes shade. In Winter you will find previously sunny spots are now shady and shady spots in Summer are now Sunny as trees have dropped their leaves.
There are some plants that tolerate both extremities such as Aurum lilies and Asparagus ferns, a great combination. You should also look at water requirements. With seasons becoming more extreme some plants that like dry soil such as the Cape Trailing Daisy, may not enjoy a very wet season and die off.
This is where mistakes can cost money but expect to have some losses, its only learning. You may wish to have an experimental bed if your patient. Ask the nursery as well.
When planning a bed look at an entire area in one go and avoid buying bits and pieces at a time. Planning a full bed ensures you get good combination to start with. Thereafter you can add some special plants you find along the way.
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – PLANTING
- Do not have more than 15 species in one garden – keep the variety
down and concentrate on pattern or your garden will look random and
confusing. - Plant in groups of 5 to 10 plants per area. Generally ornamental grasses should be between 5 and 6 per square meter to get a decent coverage.
- Plant in sweeps – generally this will get the eye moving.
- Remember to plant those that need similar amounts of water together.
- In general, smaller plants in the front, larger at the back. You can bring a taller plant to the front of the bed to create depth.
- Research your plants before you buy them. Between books and people you will get to know whether plants like shade or Sun etc.
4.2 Colour and Texture
Your planting pattern should look at these two concepts.
Texture relates to the size and design of the leaves. Broad leaves against stray leaves provides great interest. When planning your garden take note of the shape, sizes and texture of the plants leaves. Try and not have too many otherwise the texture becomes too busy. However there are exceptions – such as a tropical forest feel. But try and use fewer textures for more impact in certain areas.
Colour is another aspect to look at in planting. Colour comes in the form of flowers, foliage (IN the form of variegation of the leaves) and you should take into account the elements of the hardscapes such as natural cladding, pots or paving.
The use of foliage for colour reduces maintenance as you will have all year round colour. For example and Acorus gold has a beautiful lime gold colour and is great to use in shade areas, lifting the area under shady trees which would otherwise be dark.
Colour is also naturally found in the flower of a plant and there are many of these. Try and see what colours work. A great tool is to do a trolley exercise, where you go to a nursery and on the trolley place a few plants to look at colour and texture contrasts.
Try and avoid buying on impulse although no gardener can! One or two plants are fine in this case but when doing an entire section you need to plan
Add colour with flowers, foliage and elements of the hardscape such as pots.
For a low-maintenance solution, use foliage rather than flowers for colour.
[Include an illustration of a spectrum to show complementary colours.]
DIY TIPS ON GARDENING DESIGN – COLOUR AND TEXTURE
- Green, gold and purple go together well. So does green and grey foliage, but Gold and Grey does not in my opinion, work too well. Mix green and bronze grasses.
- Add low-maintenance seasonal colour with day lilies, begonias or red hot pokers scattered among grasses.
- Pots in bright colours such as burnt orange or red work well.
- Variegated plants lighten things up and add texture and interest. Do not put different variegated plants next to each other as these will clash.
- Try and avoid mixing pastels with the rich colours. For example pink amongst Red and Orange is lost.
- Create space with colour and texture
- Use plants with a fine texture in a small garden to create the illusion of distance, so your garden looks bigger than it is.
- In a big garden, plant broad-leafed plants at the back; their size will make them seem closer, and give your garden definition in the outer reaches, preventing it from fading away and losing impact.
- In a small garden, plant bright colours at the front and dark colours towards the back to enhance a sense of distance and space.
- In a big garden, put some colours at the back, because colour will make the boundary appear closer.
- Do not plant trees close to boundary walls or buildings – that means your house – they will grow and damage walls and foundations. Plant them at least 500mm from any wall or building for non root aggressive species. The root aggressive species such as Ficus should not be planted in small gardens at all.
4.4 Lawn
Plant lawn last. That way, you won’t damage it with wheelbarrows and other
equipment while you work on the rest of the garden. Don’t use top soil when
you plant lawn – after two or three months (ideally, the following spring) – you
should put a layer of topsoil over the lawn to remove unevenness, and
thereafter once a year each spring.
You can get Instant lawn which is available readily. You could sow seeds but this should be reserved more for the Canadian type turf as opposed to the basic Kikuyu lawn.
You should be aware of the sun in your garden. Kikuyu does enjoy sun so in winter in a shady garden it will die back. Look at using the shade over or LM lawns (If not too shady)
Lawn needs to be maintained weekly and is the reason why most gardeners are employed. IN Summer you need to mow at least once a week and in Winter not too often but it should be watered at least once a week during the dry season.
You should apply fertiliser on lawn twice a year – August with Top Soil and in February each year. You can also fertilise the garden at the same time. A good general fertiliser is 2:3:2 although there are many varieties that you can look into.
4.5 Try this easy quick planting combination:
Edge a bed with rock roses leading up to Carex frosted curls inter planted with
red-hot pokers. Ornate and soft shrubs looks great with aloes, so plant a tree
aloe in the centre as a focal point and Freylinia tropica as a backdrop.
Ideas for Plants - Low-maintenance plants
Ornamental grasses:
- Liriope
- Carex
- Ophiopogons (Mondo grass)
- Acorus
- Juncus (indigenous)
- Chondropetalum tectorum
Shrubs:
- Westringia
- Nandina pygmea
- Tecomaria capensis
- Strelitzia reginae
- Plectranthus
- Murraya exotica
Trees:
- Vepris lanceolata (White ironwood)
- Nuxia floribunda (Forest elder)
- Heteropyxis natalensis (Lavender tree)
Traditional:
- Celtis
- Combretum
- Dias cotinifolia (Pom pon tree <spelling correct>)
Aloes
- Aloe barberae (Tree aloe)
- Aloe striatula (small)
- Aloe marlothii (big)
- Aloe arborescens
Plants that complement aloes:
- Echevaria (rock rose)
- Crassula varieties
4.6 Compost and Fertiliser
Fertilise twice a year – in spring and mid to late summer. More is not more –
too much fertilising will leach nutrients out of the soil; in fact, over fertilising is
worse than not fertilising at all.
Compost needs to be well treated, so don’t buy it off the streets, still
steaming. If it has not been treated, it will be too acidic and will kill plants. An
ammonia smell is a dead giveaway that it hasn't’t been treated. Stick with
good brands that are sold at the well known nurseries. Fertilising with
organic compost is a great option. You can also use a slow-release chemical
fertiliser as well as use alternative organic fertilisers which are
becoming more popular but may require more frequent applications.
TIP: If you employ a gardener, ask your landscaper to instruct him in the key
functions of garden maintenance. Try and arrange for him to work with the
landscape company and get some on-the-job training and gather some
invaluable experience. Green By Nature offers this service.
CONTACTS
If it’s going to take you more than two weekends of hard work, consider
getting in a professional landscaper and his team to do it for you. A
professional landscaper can be involved with the design, installation and
maintenance of your garden, or all three together. Make sure the company is
registered with SALI or LGDA.
To make sure they’re reputable, check out:
- Previous work
- References
- Websites
- How long have they been around?
- Awards (SALI awards, etc)
- Show gardens, competition and magazine exposure.

